In the steep and majestic lands of the Northern Rhône Valley, a new generation of winemakers embarks on a captivating challenge: to preserve the elegance and finesse of their wines in a rapidly changing world. “My father sought to achieve fully ripe wines; my challenge is to have grapes that are not overly ripe.” These words from Olivier Clape of Domaine Auguste Clape in Cornas resonate throughout the region, where climate change demands a rethinking of every action, every decision, to maintain the delicate balance that defines these celebrated wines.
Côte Rôtie: The Burgundy of the Rhône
This quest for harmony spans the entire northern Rhône, from Vienne to Valence, where emblematic grape varieties like Syrah, Marsanne, Roussanne, and Viognier thrive on granite soils and steep, dramatic slopes. In Côte-Rôtie, the red wines stand out for their straightforward character and a certain austerity—qualities that, in the face of climate change, become a valuable asset, preserving their natural freshness. Maison Clusel Roch, a pioneer in this respect, undertakes a fascinating initiative by reviving an ancient variety of Syrah known as Serine. Recognized for its high-quality grapes, this variety is cultivated through remarkable efforts: starting from their century-old vines, they propagate new plants to ensure the excellence of their young vines. This effort is essential, given the challenges in obtaining quality selections from nurseries, where traceability is not always guaranteed. However, this reproduction process is costly, both in time and money, a true challenge for the winemakers of tomorrow.
Viognier: It’s Too Hot!
Each vintage in this region is an exciting adventure, a constant surprise of aromas and flavors. In Condrieu, winemakers shape Viognier, a delicate and aromatic grape, to create rich and aromatic white wines. However, rising temperatures make it challenging to maintain freshness and balance. A remarkable exception is found at Château Grillet, a unique estate and AOC in its own right, where an abundance of Chouchillon, the ancestor of Viognier, imparts a complexity and balance that set these wines apart from those of the Condrieu AOC, despite the estate being situated right within this appellation.
Saint-Joseph: A.O.C. on Pause
Saint-Joseph: A.O.C. on Pause
Saint-Joseph, a beautiful yet complex appellation in the northern Rhône, is facing new challenges. This region, known for its varied terroirs and rich diversity of exposures, produces vibrant Syrah for reds, alongside Marsanne and Roussanne for whites. Wines from the northern part of Saint-Joseph are often lively and dynamic, while those from the south display more roundness and generosity.
However, a recent regulatory shift has disrupted the appellation. A law passed 30 years ago, taking effect in 2021, has reclassified vineyards above 350 meters in altitude as “Vin de France.” This change is particularly controversial, as the trend of planting at higher altitudes has been a common adaptation strategy against rising temperatures. Consequently, certain Saint-Joseph wines that held prestigious AOC status until 2020 are now labeled as Vin de France, resulting in a loss of both classification and market value, posing a significant challenge to winemakers and the future of this appellation.
Hermitage: The Art of Blending at J.L. Chave
In Tain-l’Hermitage, one reaches the famous Hermitage hill, home to some of the world’s most renowned reds and whites. Unlike in Burgundy, where there is an increasing focus on single-parcel cuvées, tradition on the Hermitage hill emphasizes blending the different parcels. Jean-Louis Chave, an iconic figure in the region, masterfully continues this approach. During my visit, I had the opportunity to taste Chave’s wines, first parcel by parcel, with each lieu-dit vinified separately. Then comes the final blend—a unique wine that captures harmony, complexity, and depth, surpassing the sum of its parts.
Crozes-Hermitage(s)
Further south, approaching Valence, lies the Crozes-Hermitage appellation, the largest and most diverse in the northern Rhône. Here, vines are planted on both slopes and plains, producing wines of remarkable variety. Some stand out for their elegance and finesse, while others are more rustic and robust, reflecting the wide range of terroirs and climates in the region.
de Crozes-Hermitage
Dulcis in Fundo : Cornas & St. Péray
Finally, just before Valence, the appellations of Cornas and Saint-Péray share production: Cornas is dedicated exclusively to reds, while Saint-Péray stands out for its whites and sparkling wines. The Syrahs from Cornas, robust and powerful, are the most virile wines of the Northern Rhône. Here, the unique microclimate, sheltered from the Mistral wind, creates ideal conditions for producing wines with a bold character, expressing the full warmth and strength of this exceptional terroir.
The Northern Rhône Valley, with its spectacular landscapes and passionate winemakers, continues to push boundaries, proving that even in the face of the toughest challenges, a love for terroir and viticultural excellence remain unwavering.
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